How Waves Are Made

How Waves Are Made

• Waves are mainly a product of the wind. The best waves for surfing are the result of the interaction of winds on the surface of the ocean, far away from the coast. Wind is the first step in the formation of surfable waves.
• Local shore winds can also produce waves, but they can also destroy the quality of the breaking waves. Onshore winds are typically known for creating choppy and bumpy waves because their effect is added to the direction of the wave.
• In a way, offshore winds are a sort of a counterbalance. Swell comes from miles away and the ground wind works as a "pause-hold" effect on the wave face, allowing longer unbreakable waves.In theory, low pressure systems are responsible for creating good and strong waves.

• In deep low pressure systems, wind speed is greater and more waves are generated by the power of the gusts.

How Waves are Made.